Zoom Sink or Swim
Zoom Rubies sunk in to recycled gold in model and jewelry designer Jayne Moore's signature style handmade in New York city using recycled metals freestyle stone setting confetti ring rubies garnets sapphires diamonds

Sink or Swim

$920.00

As with most of my work, this piece started out as a rough idea, a vision, a new method I wanted to test... We are always learning, and in my tenth year of jewelry making, I still have so much I want to learn.

I started with carving what I consider to be "the perfect band". Elegant and yet broad enough to stand out, thick enough to feel substantial, with a tangible gravity to her, but the edges softened, and rounded delicately, with a subtle, sensual dome. Thats how every beautiful band should begin. From here I loosely plot where the stones will fall, cutting in holes and stone beds and lining up the gems that get to play in this one, the ones that speak to me today... And then there comes an element of freewill if you like. I add heat to the stones and encourage them to fall as they will, in the bed that I laid, or not, upside down, sideways, or not... I allow the stones to lead, and the heat to create the natural ebb and flow that the molten metal will eventually follow.

For this piece I chose fiery sienna colored garnets, rubies, raw diamonds and diamond shards, and cast this ring in my personal favorite, 10kt Yellow Gold.  

Each and every ring is hand made to order, and created using a unique and pretty extraordinary technique called cast in place. So there will be variables in each ring as no two can be the same, this isn't a process that I can mass produce. I can emulate the ring photographed using the same stones and rough layout, or I can use stones of your choosing - one color or several mixed. There is so much roof for play.

Lost wax carving:

I am a lost wax carver - an ancient Egyptian art form of carving sculpture into wax, or in this instance jewelry, that is then set into heatproof plaster and fired in a kiln allowing the wax to melt away, leaving a cavity in the plaster for molten metal to be poured in. It is called lost wax because that one original carving is then forever lost. The process is nothing short of a gamble and there is a humbling element of chance involved in every cast - and this is all part of what makes the process so thrilling. 

The technique of adding stones to the wax carving is known as "Cast in Place", using heat to sink stones into the wax, and carving out little stone beds to build up wax around the stones, I work these gems into my carvings, allowing the heat to lead and the stones to fall where they will. The goal is this sweet spot where there is enough space around the stone to allow the plaster to pin it in place during the burnout, and enough wax around the stone to hold it secure once cast, but sparingly enough to create a unique and visually precarious setting, without a traditional bezel or prong setting. 

Every one is unique to the next, the stones have their own spectrum of diversity, and the natural ebb and flow of the wax makes for an organic sense of movement and equilibrium. Not all stones will survive this process, it's only possible with Diamonds, Sapphires, Ruby's, Garnets and a few brave souls I dare to throw in to the mix. And anything can happen in the cast... 

If you have any specific desires or curiosities please reach out and email me, much of my work is taking these starting points as your canvas, or inspiration, and custom creating something uniquely for you.

Made with passion, made with fire. 

-JM 

Handmade in New York

Sustainable - Using only recycled & refined Gold.

Responsible - Preferring stones with character; diamond off-cuts, stones with irregularities, veins, feathering and carbon freckling. By seeking out the natural “bi-product” of the existing industry we create less waste of precious resources.

Recycled - Packaging made from 85% recycled materials, made in neighboring New Jersey.

Direct to Consumer - Resulting in prices over 60% less than retail.

No outsourcing. No Exploitation. Human or Animal.

18k Royal Yellow -

Our 18k Royal Yellow is the perfect blend of yellow Gold’s with a warmer hue - less green than some - which is extremely beautiful - rich and refined - on all skin tones.

18k Rose Gold - 

Our 18k Rose Gold is the result of an infusion of copper and a touch of silver into our Gold, giving it that warm, rich, earthy quality that makes Rose Gold such a beautiful metal. The silver paling it from the otherwise ‘red gold’, the copper adding a blush. The result is what we call our “dusty rose”. Indeed this just might be our all-time favourite metal blend.

Our Signature 10k Gold -

Our signature 10k Yellow Gold is an unsung hero. An underestimated Gold, this is a beautiful, very strong, pale and creamy gold that shines  brilliantly and pops against all skin tones - being naturally less yellow and brassy than the typical 18-24kt Golds.

As the flashy "Kardashian culture" evolved, the higher karat golds became more coveted, but time and time again it's my 10 karat pieces that people notice and fall in love with. It's a beautiful fine metal, strong, classy and unpretentious. We're bringing it back!

Platinum -

Platinum is a white metal, but unlike gold it is much stronger, and therefore used in jewelry in almost a pure form (approximately 95% pure).
Platinum is extremely long wearing and is less grey than the mislabeled white gold, so it does not need to be Rhodium plated like white gold does.
Platinum is very dense (heavy), so a platinum ring will feel heavier than an 18kt gold ring.

White Gold -

We do do white gold on occasion, but are less fickle about the karat. White gold is actually a grey metal, and is almost always Rhodium plated to appear more white. For this reason, we tend to use 14kt White Gold as it is strong and durable.

Ring size is very specific to each individual, so I highly recommend you print out our Ring Sizer for guidance - it is VITAL that you print it out at 100% scale on your printer. Some printers automatically adjust the scale settings, so please be diligent when checking.

The thicker the band, the more snuggly it will fit, so I recommend you size up half a size for anything north of a 5mm wide band.

On Principle

Handmade in New York

Sustainable - Using only recycled & refined Gold.

Responsible - Preferring stones with character; diamond off-cuts, stones with irregularities, veins, feathering and carbon freckling. By seeking out the natural “bi-product” of the existing industry we create less waste of precious resources.

Recycled - Packaging made from 85% recycled materials, made in neighboring New Jersey.

Direct to Consumer - Resulting in prices over 60% less than retail.

No outsourcing. No Exploitation. Human or Animal.

Our Metals

18k Royal Yellow -

Our 18k Royal Yellow is the perfect blend of yellow Gold’s with a warmer hue - less green than some - which is extremely beautiful - rich and refined - on all skin tones.

18k Rose Gold - 

Our 18k Rose Gold is the result of an infusion of copper and a touch of silver into our Gold, giving it that warm, rich, earthy quality that makes Rose Gold such a beautiful metal. The silver paling it from the otherwise ‘red gold’, the copper adding a blush. The result is what we call our “dusty rose”. Indeed this just might be our all-time favourite metal blend.

Our Signature 10k Gold -

Our signature 10k Yellow Gold is an unsung hero. An underestimated Gold, this is a beautiful, very strong, pale and creamy gold that shines  brilliantly and pops against all skin tones - being naturally less yellow and brassy than the typical 18-24kt Golds.

As the flashy "Kardashian culture" evolved, the higher karat golds became more coveted, but time and time again it's my 10 karat pieces that people notice and fall in love with. It's a beautiful fine metal, strong, classy and unpretentious. We're bringing it back!

Platinum -

Platinum is a white metal, but unlike gold it is much stronger, and therefore used in jewelry in almost a pure form (approximately 95% pure).
Platinum is extremely long wearing and is less grey than the mislabeled white gold, so it does not need to be Rhodium plated like white gold does.
Platinum is very dense (heavy), so a platinum ring will feel heavier than an 18kt gold ring.

White Gold -

We do do white gold on occasion, but are less fickle about the karat. White gold is actually a grey metal, and is almost always Rhodium plated to appear more white. For this reason, we tend to use 14kt White Gold as it is strong and durable.

Size Guide

Ring size is very specific to each individual, so I highly recommend you print out our Ring Sizer for guidance - it is VITAL that you print it out at 100% scale on your printer. Some printers automatically adjust the scale settings, so please be diligent when checking.

The thicker the band, the more snuggly it will fit, so I recommend you size up half a size for anything north of a 5mm wide band.

Sink or Swim

$920.00